The Collection

Restaurants that are superb — and nearly impossible to reach from abroad. No English pages, no booking apps, phone lines that only open at odd hours, houses that answer to people they know. We profile them in depth, and we can book every one of them.

Every table below: booking fee ¥8,000/seat, charged only on confirmation.

Tokyo

Isehiro Kyobashi

Kyobashi, Tokyo · Yakitori — one whole bird, twelve acts

A century of yakitori five minutes from Tokyo Station — one whole chicken, butchered at dawn, served as a twelve-course progression.

Dinner courses ¥8,000–10,000 · lunch donburi from ¥1,800 · Moderate — phone-only; lunch queues, dinner books out

Edogawa Ishibashi

Edogawabashi, Tokyo · Unagi — Michelin-starred, killed to order

The Michelin-starred eel house that closes on Japan's eel-eating day — a 1910 family kitchen where your unagi is killed after you book.

Unajū ¥6,800–7,800 · courses ¥19,000–25,000 (+10% service) · Moderate — order-at-booking system; no under-6s

Bentenyama Miyakozushi

Asakusa, Tokyo · Classical Edomae sushi — the pre-refrigeration canon

Sushi as it was before refrigeration — a 160-year-old house from the lineage of sushi's inventor, two minutes from Sensō-ji.

Courses ¥11,660–18,260 · dzuke-don from ¥3,300 · Moderate — sixteen seats; weekends go early

Sakuranabe Nakae

Minowa (old Yoshiwara), Tokyo · Horse-meat hot pot — Tokyo's last sakuranabe house

The last sakuranabe house of the Yoshiwara — horse-meat hot pot in a century-old landmark building, four generations at the old gate.

Dinner courses ¥7,980–21,180 · weekend lunch 30 servings only · Easy to book, easy to miss — the story needs a guide

Aigamo Ippin Toriyasu

Higashi-Nihonbashi, Tokyo · Duck sukiyaki — one dish since 1872

One dish for 153 years — duck sukiyaki seared on charcoal-heated iron, served by a house founded by a masterless samurai.

Single course ~¥17,000 (dinner only) · Moderate — phone-only, December fills first

Botan

Kanda-Sudacho, Tokyo · Chicken sukiyaki (torisuki) over charcoal

One dish for 130 years — chicken sukiyaki cooked over live charcoal in a wooden house the modern city forgot.

Dinner ~¥9,000–12,000 · Moderate — phone recommended

Isegen

Kanda-Awajicho, Tokyo · Anglerfish hot pot (ankou nabe)

Tokyo's only anglerfish specialist since 1830, in a wooden house the fires of the last century never touched.

Lunch from ~¥6,000 · Dinner ~¥12,000 · Moderate — winter peak fills fast

Momonjiya

Ryogoku, Tokyo · Wild boar hot pot (shishinabe)

Tokyo's 300-year-old wild boar house — the last of the Edo "beast restaurants," ten generations in.

Dinner ¥8,000–12,000 per person · Easy–moderate

Sushi Murayama

Ginza, Tokyo · Edomae sushi — Michelin one star

A Michelin-starred Ginza counter within our own group — the one reservation we can guarantee outright.

Lunch from ~¥13,000 · Dinner ¥30,000– · Guaranteed — our own group

Yokohama

Beyond Tokyo — worth the journey

Al Ché-cciano

Tsuruoka, Yamagata · Italian built on Japan's oldest vegetables

The chef who put a UNESCO food city on the map — Italian cooking from 60 heirloom vegetables, in a restaurant built to face a sacred mountain.

Lunch from ~¥5,000 · Dinner courses ~¥8,800–22,000 · Moderate — the challenge is the trip, not the table

Kataori

Kanazawa · Kaiseki — the purest dashi in Japan

Ranked the No.1 restaurant in Japan by OAD — eight seats by a Kanazawa river, and a master who drives 300 km a day for your dinner.

Omakase ~¥50,000–80,000 + 10% (seasonal) · Extreme — instant sellout on release; request-based through our desk

Sushisho Nomura

Kagoshima · Sushi — Kagoshima fish only, aged to the day

Eight seats at the foot of a volcano — sushi made only from Kagoshima's sea, by a chef who calls himself "the fishermen's spokesman."

Dinner ~¥40,000 (omakase only) · Hard from abroad — phone-only, no platforms; we book it by phone

Tonoya Yo

Tono, Iwate · Fermentation-driven kaiseki — one-party-a-night auberge

One party a night, in a 200-year-old rice storehouse — the farmhouse brewery that made the world's chefs travel to a folktale town.

Stay with dinner & breakfast, from ~¥66,000/person (quoted at booking; menu priced to the season) · Very hard — opens 2 months out, one party per night

Sushidokoro Tsukuta

Karatsu, Saga · "Karatsu-mae" sushi — Edo technique, Genkai Sea fish

Two Michelin stars in a pottery town of 120,000 — sushi served on the kilns' own ceramics, from the sea outside the door.

Lunch from ~¥7,700 · Dinner ~¥20,000–30,000 with sake · Hard from abroad — quarterly openings, Japanese-only booking

Yukimoto

Iida, Nagano · Mountain kaiseki — bear, matsutake, river fish

Japan's greatest mountain table — four-season bear hot pot and 600 grams of matsutake per guest, three minutes from a small-town station.

Courses ¥29,700–44,000 + 10% service · Seasonal race — bear & matsutake seats sell out months ahead