新ばし 笹田

Kappo cooking — seasonal Japanese food prepared in front of the guest — that sets out to let each ingredient taste of itself, with careful work and as little seasoning as the dish allows. The calendar writes the menu: bamboo shoots, ayu, hamo, and in winter kobako crab sent from Hyogo. The house signatures are an oden of Kyoto vegetables and a suppon (soft‑shell turtle) hotpot that draws guests back as winter approaches; whale dishes are a strength too, and the kitchen will work them into the menu to your taste. The meal closes with white rice cooked in a clay pot for each party, using Uonuma Koshihikari and water chosen after side‑by‑side tastings.

Everything goes through the phone, in Japanese: 03‑3507‑5501 (Gurunavi lists 050‑5488‑5914). Tabelog takes no online bookings, and no release day is published. The house seats parties of two or more — no solo diners — and does not admit children. Dinner only, Monday to Saturday from 18:00; closed Sundays, national holidays and over New Year. Cancellations cost 50% the day before and 100% on the day, and service is 10%. Tabelog lists only JCB, Amex and Diners cards while Gurunavi adds Visa and Mastercard, so carry a second card. The 17 seats split between an 8-seat hinoki counter — the place to watch Sasada work — and private table rooms for up to eight, with no room charge.

Counter or room, whether suppon or whale can be part of the meal, an allergy the kitchen should hear about in advance — those are settled with the house in Japanese, on the phone, and that is the call our desk makes.