The Journal
Michelin, lineage, and how Japan's restaurants take bookings
Field notes from our Tokyo desk — who is actually reachable and how, the histories behind the counters, and the realistic way in. Written by the people who make these calls every day.
27 articles
Lineage & History
The Family Tree of Edomae Sushi: From Hanaya Yohei to Today
Hand-formed edomae sushi began in early-1800s Edo, credited to Hanaya Yohei. From his shop and two later houses, Senju Miyako and Futaba, descended the artisans who staffed Ginza's postwar founding counters. Most of Tokyo's elite sushi counters today trace back to these roots.
Lineage & History
Ginza's Founding Sushi Houses
Three counters defined postwar Ginza sushi: Kyubey, opened 1935; Yoshino, opened 1949; and Nakada, opened 1950. Most modern edomae lineages branch from these founding houses, with Kyubey in particular acting as the great talent source of the high-end sushi world.
Lineage & History
The Classic Edomae Line of Kiyota & Futaba
The classic salt-and-red-vinegar school of edomae runs from the Meiji-era Futaba house through Kiyota, the counter founded by one of Futaba's celebrated masters. This austere, traditional style spread well beyond Tokyo to the castle town of Karatsu, where the counter Tsukuta still carries the old line forward in Kyushu today.