Kagawa is Japan's udon country, and Wara-ya is one of its landmarks: a thatched-roof farmhouse from the Edo period, taken down and rebuilt at the foot of Yashima. The name nods to zaigo, the Sanuki word for the countryside the building came from. The setting is half the visit — timber, straw, and a garden, a world away from a station-side noodle stand.
What you eat
The dish to order is kamaage udon: the noodles are boiled to order in a great cauldron and brought still warm and undrained, to be dipped in a hot tsuke-dashi poured from a tall one-shō flask. The broth is the house secret, and the noodles carry the chew Sanuki udon is prized for. It is a single, simple thing done at a level that draws people across the island.
How to arrive and order
Sanuki udon runs on queues, not reservations, and Wara-ya is popular enough that a line is part of the experience — the value is in knowing how to meet it. Come outside the midday peak if you can; the wait moves quickly once you are seated, since the kitchen is built for volume across roughly two hundred seats. Order the kamaage, take a flask of the dipping broth, and you have the dish the place is known for.
Who should join the line
Travelers with a day around Takamatsu — the Ritsurin garden, the coast, the islands of the Seto Inland Sea offshore — who want the region's defining noodle at one of its most atmospheric houses, and don't mind trading a reservation for a short wait.