Torishige began as a stall in the postwar Shinjuku black market, selling pork offal skewers under a chicken shop's name — a common disguise in 1949. Three generations later it occupies its own building by the station's south exit, and the counter upstairs is famous as the room where Tokyo's executives, athletes and editors close their deals; regulars half-joke about the "lucky seat" at the grill's left end. The tare has been fed continuously for three-quarters of a century.
What you eat
An omakase march of yakiton — throat, heart, liver grilled over binchōtan and painted with that ancient sauce — punctuated by the house invention that entered the Japanese canon: the stuffed green pepper, created by the first master from his hamburger-steak days. The current omakase drifts happily upmarket (wagyu skewers, chateaubriand, even caviar on rice), but the soul is still offal, smoke, and sweet soy.
The Noren View
This is Tokyo's great "low food, high room" paradox: nominally a pork-skewer joint, in practice harder to seat well than many starred counters, and cash-only besides. It pairs perfectly with a first Shinjuku night — Golden Gai and Omoide Yokochō are a walk away, and Torishige shows you what those alleys' cooking becomes after seventy-five years of polish.
Who should go
Eaters who judge a city by its charcoal rather than its stars — and anyone entertaining Japanese colleagues who will be deeply impressed you got the table.