The Journal
Michelin, lineage, and how Japan's restaurants take bookings
Field notes from our Tokyo desk — who is actually reachable and how, the histories behind the counters, and the realistic way in. Written by the people who make these calls every day.
24 articles
Etiquette & Culture
Paying the Bill in Japan: Phrases, Customs and No Tipping
Ask for the bill with okaikei onegaishimasu, or make the universal X-with-fingers gesture across the room. In most casual restaurants you pay at the register by the door, not at the table; place cash or card on the small tray provided rather than handing it over. There is no tipping — none, ever — and attempting it causes confusion, not delight. Separate bills (betsu-betsu) are accepted at casual places but not at…
Etiquette & Culture
Counter Manners in Japan: Your Phone, Your Bag and the Wood
At a serious Japanese counter the wood in front of you is part of the chef's workspace, not a table for your things. Keep your phone, keys, camera and bag off it; use the basket under the counter and take photos with the phone in your hand. Small soft items — a card case, a folded handkerchief — are fine. Take off a watch with a metal clasp, rest your forearms lightly, and let the staff wipe up anything you spill.
Etiquette & Culture
Kaiseki and Ryotei Etiquette: Shoes, Tatami and the Private Room
At a ryotei or kaiseki house you will take your shoes off at the entrance, so wear socks and step over — not on — the raised threshold and the tatami borders. Sit where the staff show you; the seat with its back to the alcove is the guest of honor's. Courses arrive one at a time as you finish the last, brought by a nakai who is your point of contact all evening. Lift small bowls to drink, return lids to their bowls,…
Etiquette & Culture
Tempura Counter Etiquette: Salt, Tentsuyu and the Twenty-Second Rule
Tempura is served one piece at a time and is at its best for about twenty seconds, so eat each piece as it arrives. The chef tells you whether a piece takes salt, tentsuyu dipping sauce or lemon; follow that and do not use both. Grated daikon goes into the tentsuyu to lighten it. Near the end you will be asked to choose the finishing rice — tendon, tencha or kakiage over rice — and that is the one decision that is…
Etiquette & Culture
Solo Dining in Japan: The Best Country on Earth to Eat Alone
Japan is the world's best country for solo dining — not tolerant of it but built for it. Counter seating dominates every format from ramen to elite sushi; solo diners are prized guests at omakase counters; ramen chains offer literal solo booths; and hitori-meshi (eating alone) is a celebrated cultural habit, not a social failure. A single seat is also the easiest booking in Japan — cancellation seats at impossible…
Etiquette & Culture
How to Order in Japanese: The Restaurant Phrases That Matter
You need surprisingly little Japanese to order well: state your party size on entry (futari desu — two people), summon staff with sumimasen, point at the menu with kore o kudasai (this, please), ask for the recommendation with osusume wa?, and hand the whole decision over with omakase de (chef's choice). Add toriaezu nama (a draft beer to start) for izakaya credibility and mizu kudasai for water. Staff meet you more…
Etiquette & Culture
Dietary Needs & Allergies at Japanese Counters
Omakase courses are fixed and built around seafood, so they offer little room for last-minute changes. Serious allergies and dietary restrictions such as vegetarian or vegan must be raised when you book, not on the night, and ideally communicated clearly in Japanese. Many counters can adapt with notice; some decline severe-allergy bookings, so it is essential to ask before you travel.
Etiquette & Culture
Do You Tip in Japan? The Definitive Answer
No, you do not tip in Japan. Tipping is not part of the culture and can confuse or even offend staff, who may chase you down to return the money. Good service is considered standard and is built into the price, and higher-end restaurants add a service charge to the bill instead. Leaving extra cash is unnecessary everywhere.
Etiquette & Culture
Can You Photograph Your Omakase? Counter Culture Explained
At most counters you may take a quick, quiet photo of your own dish, but there is no universal rule, so the etiquette is to check. Flash, video, and photographing other guests or the chef without permission are off-limits everywhere. Above all, never let a photo delay eating nigiri, which is at its best for only seconds after it is served.
Etiquette & Culture
Sushi Counter Etiquette: 13 Rules for the Omakase Bar
At a sushi counter, eat each piece of nigiri within seconds using your hand or chopsticks, dip fish-side lightly in soy sauce rather than soaking the rice, avoid strong perfume, and follow the chef's chosen order without demanding substitutions. An omakase is a set sequence the chef has planned, and good counter manners come down to keeping his rhythm.
Etiquette & Culture
What to Wear to Fine Dining in Japan: Dress Code Guide
Most of Japan's celebrated counters have no strict dress code, but smart casual is the safe default: neat trousers, a collared shirt or a simple dress, and clean shoes. Avoid shorts, tank tops, and flip-flops. The one firm rule is fragrance — strong perfume or scented products interfere with delicate food and are discouraged at serious counters.
Etiquette & Culture
Japan Restaurant Etiquette — What Actually Matters
Eight things matter at a serious Japanese restaurant — arrive ten minutes early, wear no strong fragrance, declare allergies when you book, eat nigiri the moment it lands, ask before photographing, check the children policy, keep your phone and bag off the bare-wood counter, and never no-show. Hands versus chopsticks, jackets, insider vocabulary and reverent silence are folklore you can ignore.