The Journal
Michelin, lineage, and how Japan's restaurants take bookings
Field notes from our Tokyo desk — who is actually reachable and how, the histories behind the counters, and the realistic way in. Written by the people who make these calls every day.
189 articles
Regions & Itineraries
Tokyo Neighborhoods for Serious Eaters
In Tokyo, neighborhoods specialize. Ginza concentrates lineage sushi and refined kappo, Nishi-Azabu holds the modern chef-driven counters, and Kagurazaka keeps the old ryotei and kaiseki tradition. Matching the district to the kind of meal you want is the fastest way to plan a Tokyo eating trip.
Definitions & Glossary
What Does a Tabelog Score Mean? Why 3.5 Is Hard and What Counts as High
A Tabelog score runs from 1.0 to 5.0 on a deliberately harsh curve. 3.5 or higher marks a genuinely excellent restaurant, and 4.0-plus places it among Japan's very best — a rare few hundred nationwide. It is not comparable to the inflated four-star ratings of Western apps.
Definitions & Glossary
What Is Edomae Shigoto (the Craft Behind the Sushi)?
Edomae shigoto is the work behind Edomae sushi — the preparation that defines the style more than freshness does. It includes vinegar-curing gizzard shad (kohada), aging and marinating tuna, slow-simmering conger eel (anago), and brushing on nitsume glaze, each step engineered to concentrate flavor before the fish reaches the rice.
Definitions & Glossary
What Is Edomae Sushi?
Edomae sushi is the Tokyo style of nigiri, named for Edo-mae — the waters in front of old Edo, today's Tokyo Bay. Defined by preservation craft such as curing, marinating, and simmering seafood rather than serving it raw, it was codified in 1820s Edo, with Hanaya Yohei credited for the hand-pressed form.
Ingredients & Seasons
Hamo: Kyoto's Summer Pike Conger and the Bone-Cutting Knife
Hamo is a pike conger eel and Kyoto's defining summer fish, at its peak in July around the Gion Festival. Its flesh is riddled with fine bones, so chefs use honekiri — roughly two dozen skin-deep cuts per three centimeters — to make it tender. That knife work is a benchmark of kaiseki mastery.
Definitions & Glossary
What Is Ichigen-san Okotowari?
Ichigen-san okotowari means no first-time customers. It is the custom, rooted in Kyoto's ochaya and upheld by many top restaurants, of accepting only guests who arrive through an existing customer's introduction. It protects trust, billing, and the seating rhythm of tiny counters, and is not snobbery but risk management.
Definitions & Glossary
What Is Kaiseki? Courses, Prices and How It Works
Kaiseki is Japan's seasonal multi-course cuisine — a set procession of small dishes, roughly an opening bite, a clear soup, sashimi, a grilled dish, a simmered dish and rice, chosen by the kitchen for the month. At most of the Kyoto kaiseki houses on our release calendar, dinner costs ¥20,000–40,000 per person in 2026 and lunch ¥8,000–25,000; the great houses charge ¥33,000–80,000 at dinner. A 10–15% service…
Definitions & Glossary
What Is Omakase? A Complete Guide
Omakase (お任せ) means "I leave it to you" — the chef, not the guest, decides every course, and you pay one set price. At the Tokyo sushi counters on our release calendar, dinner omakase mostly costs ¥20,000–40,000 per person in 2026, lunch ¥5,000–22,000, and the top rooms ¥50,000 and up (¥88,000 at Sukiyabashi Jiro). Expect small dishes and then roughly 10–15 pieces of nigiri over about two hours, a fixed start…
Definitions & Glossary
Tsukidashi vs Otoshi: Japan's Surprise First Dish
Otoshi (Kanto) and tsukidashi (Kansai) are the small first dish set down before you order at an izakaya or kappo. It doubles as a seat charge, usually ¥300–¥800 per person, appears on the bill as otoshi-dai, and is a standard, legally accepted custom across Japan, not an overcharge or a scam.
Etiquette & Culture
What to Wear to Fine Dining in Japan: Dress Code Guide
Most of Japan's celebrated counters have no strict dress code, but smart casual is the safe default: neat trousers, a collared shirt or a simple dress, and clean shoes. Avoid shorts, tank tops, and flip-flops. The one firm rule is fragrance — strong perfume or scented products interfere with delicate food and are discouraged at serious counters.
Regions & Itineraries
The Fukuoka Gateway — Kyushu's Food Route
Land at Asia's easiest airport, eat at a yatai stall that night, reach a sushi town by local train, and finish in hot-spring steam. Four days, all by rail.
Prices & Money
How Much Is a Nice Dinner in Japan? Restaurant Prices (2026)
At the restaurants on our release calendar, dinner omakase at a Tokyo sushi counter mostly costs ¥20,000–40,000 per person in 2026, kaiseki in Kyoto ¥20,000–40,000 and in Tokyo ¥25,000–50,000, a top tempura counter ¥16,500–35,000 and yakitori omakase ¥7,700–16,000. The most expensive rooms charge ¥50,000–100,000, and Sukiyabashi Jiro ¥88,000. Lunch often costs half as much or less. Add drinks, a service charge…