The Journal
Michelin, lineage, and how Japan's restaurants take bookings
Field notes from our Tokyo desk — who is actually reachable and how, the histories behind the counters, and the realistic way in. Written by the people who make these calls every day.
189 articles
Michelin & Rankings
Every Michelin Three-Star Sushi in Japan (2026)
In the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2026, Japan's only currently rated three-star sushi counter is Harutaka (Aozora) in Ginza, with Three MICHELIN Stars (MICHELIN Guide Japan 2026). Sukiyabashi Jiro and Sushi Saito left the guide in the 2020 edition after closing to public reservations, and Sushi Yoshitake fell from three stars to two in the 2024 edition and has not been listed since 2025. The Kyoto–Osaka 2026 guide has no…
Michelin & Rankings
Michelin vs Tabelog: How to Read Japan's Two Ranking Systems
Michelin and Tabelog measure different things. Michelin awards stars to a small, inspector-curated selection of restaurants; Tabelog is a public database scoring restaurants from 1.0 to 5.0, where 3.5 and above is excellent. The two lists often disagree, so experienced diners in Japan read both rather than trusting either alone.
Ingredients & Seasons
Nodoguro: Japan's Prized Rosy Seabass, Explained
Nodoguro, also called akamutsu or rosy seabass, is a fatty white fish famous for its rich, buttery flesh, so oily it is nicknamed the toro of white fish. Its season runs from roughly autumn into winter, when the fat is at its peak. It is a signature ingredient of Kanazawa and the Sea of Japan coast, served grilled, simmered, as sushi, or over rice.
Etiquette & Culture
Can You Photograph Your Omakase? Counter Culture Explained
At most counters you may take a quick, quiet photo of your own dish, but there is no universal rule, so the etiquette is to check. Flash, video, and photographing other guests or the chef without permission are off-limits everywhere. Above all, never let a photo delay eating nigiri, which is at its best for only seconds after it is served.
Prices & Money
How Much Does Omakase Sushi Cost in Japan? (2026)
In 2026, top-tier Tokyo omakase sushi generally runs about 30,000 to 60,000 yen and above per person, excluding drinks, while strong mid-tier counters start around 15,000 yen. Entry-level serious omakase can be found from roughly 9,000 to 15,000 yen, and drinks typically add 5,000 to 10,000 yen. Regional cities offer comparable quality for noticeably less.
Booking & Access
Phone-Only Restaurants Beyond Tokyo
Many of Japan's finest tables outside Tokyo — Restaurant Moliere in Sapporo, Komatsu Yasuke in Kanazawa, Hira Sanso in Shiga, Funakoshi in Fukuoka, Mie in Naha — still take reservations by Japanese phone, some only on a fixed morning. The barrier is language and timing, not availability. This guide lists the phone-first houses in our collection region by region, with the one rule that matters at each, and names the…
Booking & Access
How to Use a Restaurant Concierge in Japan
A restaurant concierge in Japan is a practical bridge for non-Japanese speakers. It makes the Japanese-language phone calls, handles deposits and no-show guarantees, relays allergy and dietary notes, and, where it has a genuine standing relationship, can sometimes reach introduction-only seats by vouching for you. You get an English confirmation with address, timing, and house rules, without ever touching the phone…
Ingredients & Seasons
Shinko: Why Japan's Most Expensive Sushi Is a Baby Fish
Shinko is the youngest stage of kohada, the gizzard shad, caught for only a few weeks in summer. The very first catch of the season can sell for more per kilogram than premium tuna, making it Japan's most expensive sushi by weight. Because the fish is tiny and labor-intensive to prepare, shinko is treated as a test of an Edomae chef's skill and a badge of the season.
Ingredients & Seasons
Shirako (Cod Milt): What It Is, When It's in Season, Where to Eat It in Japan
Shirako is the milt (sperm sac) of male fish, most often cod (tara) or pufferfish (fugu), served as a rich, custard-soft winter delicacy in Japan. Its season peaks from roughly December through February, when the sacs are fullest. You will find it at sushi counters, fugu specialists, and kappo restaurants, served raw, grilled, simmered, or in a light broth.
Etiquette & Culture
Sushi Counter Etiquette: 13 Rules for the Omakase Bar
At a sushi counter, eat each piece of nigiri within seconds using your hand or chopsticks, dip fish-side lightly in soy sauce rather than soaking the rice, avoid strong perfume, and follow the chef's chosen order without demanding substitutions. An omakase is a set sequence the chef has planned, and good counter manners come down to keeping his rhythm.
Ingredients & Seasons
A Seasonal Calendar of Japanese Sushi Fish
In Japan, sushi is seasonal, and the Edomae calendar shifts month by month. Summer brings baby gizzard shad (shinko) and lean bonito; autumn delivers sanma and matsutake; winter is the peak for cold-fattened yellowtail (kanburi), cod milt (shirako), and pufferfish; spring returns to kohada, clams, and firefly squid. Choose your travel dates by the fish you most want to eat.
Michelin & Rankings
Tabelog 100 (Hyakumeiten) Explained: What Japan's Top-100 Lists Mean and How to Use Them
Tabelog Hyakumeiten are Japan's hundred-best restaurant lists, published yearly by genre — such as sushi, ramen, and soba. Each names the top 100 restaurants in its category, taken by Tabelog score at a set point in time. They are short, locally trusted shortlists that overlap only partly with Michelin and reward genre specialists the guide often misses.