The Journal
Michelin, lineage, and how Japan's restaurants take bookings
Field notes from our Tokyo desk — who is actually reachable and how, the histories behind the counters, and the realistic way in. Written by the people who make these calls every day.
190 articles
Etiquette & Culture
Paying the Bill in Japan: Phrases, Customs and No Tipping
Ask for the bill with okaikei onegaishimasu, or make the universal X-with-fingers gesture across the room. In most casual restaurants you pay at the register by the door, not at the table; place cash or card on the small tray provided rather than handing it over. There is no tipping — none, ever — and attempting it causes confusion, not delight. Separate bills (betsu-betsu) are accepted at casual places but not at…
Regions & Itineraries
Kyoto in Autumn-Leaf Season: When to Book Kaiseki for November 2026
November is the tightest month in Kyoto's dining year. For November 2026, Ogata, Gion Owatari, Gion Sasaki, Chihana and Muromachi Wakuden have already opened their books; Soujiki Nakahigashi opens by phone at 08:00 on 1 October. Hyotei, Kikunoi and Kitcho publish no release day, so request them now and build meals around temple mornings.
Lineage & History
Tonkatsu Sugita (Kuramae, Tokyo): Prices, Hours and How to Get a Seat
Tonkatsu Sugita (すぎ田) is a twenty-seat Kuramae house, founded in 1977, that fries its cutlets in lard across two copper pots. Lunch is a queue, so arrive before the 11:30 opening. Dinner books by phone in Japanese or through Tabelog's online calendar. Arrive on time, because a late party is treated as a cancellation.
Regions & Itineraries
Chiba Food Guide: The Serious Dinner Near Narita
Chiba is where most international visitors arrive and depart, and it has tables worth planning a first or last night around. In Chiba City, Sushiei is the prefecture's most decorated sushi counter, while Takaoka serves an all-Chiba omakase you can book online. Near Narita, Ushimaru is a farmhouse Italian in the rice fields of Sammu, about 40 minutes from the airport by car. Takeyabu in Kashiwa and Sushi Sasamoto in…
Etiquette & Culture
Counter Manners in Japan: Your Phone, Your Bag and the Wood
At a serious Japanese counter the wood in front of you is part of the chef's workspace, not a table for your things. Keep your phone, keys, camera and bag off it; use the basket under the counter and take photos with the phone in your hand. Small soft items — a card case, a folded handkerchief — are fine. Take off a watch with a metal clasp, rest your forearms lightly, and let the staff wipe up anything you spill.
Etiquette & Culture
Kaiseki and Ryotei Etiquette: Shoes, Tatami and the Private Room
At a ryotei or kaiseki house you will take your shoes off at the entrance, so wear socks and step over — not on — the raised threshold and the tatami borders. Sit where the staff show you; the seat with its back to the alcove is the guest of honor's. Courses arrive one at a time as you finish the last, brought by a nakai who is your point of contact all evening. Lift small bowls to drink, return lids to their bowls,…
Regions & Itineraries
Kamakura, Yokohama & Odawara: Food Day Trips from Tokyo
Kanagawa is Tokyo's easiest food day trip, and the best way to plan it is by route rather than by restaurant. In Kita-Kamakura, Gentoan serves kaiseki on antique tableware a few minutes' walk from the Zen temples, with a single 12:00 lunch seating. Yokohama is an evening city — yakitori at Ribatei, tempura at Tempura Uemura, gyunabe at Ohta Nawanoren or a ryotei dinner at Tanakaya. And on the road to Hakone,…
Regions & Itineraries
Hyogo Beyond the Beef: Where to Eat in Kobe, Akashi, Ashiya and Himeji
Hyogo is known abroad for Kobe beef, but its best eating runs along the coast west of Osaka — sea bream and octopus from the Akashi Strait, sushi built on Hyogo's own ports, yakitori in a quiet suburb and kaiseki under Himeji Castle. Sushi Ueda in Kobe, Kikusui-zushi Nishi-ten in Akashi, Eragon in Ashiya and Tanryu in Himeji all take bookings without a release day, most of them online; Misono, the teppanyaki house…
Regions & Itineraries
Kumamoto and Oita Food Guide: Horse, Fugu and Soft-Shell Turtle
Kumamoto and Oita share a volcano, Aso, and a table that runs on horse, fugu and soft-shell turtle. In Kumamoto, eat basashi at the izakaya Iroha and Amakusa fish at Sushi Nakamura and Sushi Taito, both starred in 2018, and at Murakami; in Oita, fugu at Ryotei Yamadaya in Usuki, suppon at Ryotei Yamasa Ryokan in Ajimu and hamo at Chikushitei in Nakatsu, with Hirokado in Beppu and Yakiniku Ito in Saiki. Most houses…
Regions & Itineraries
Where to Eat in Nara: Kaiseki, Soba and a Reason to Stay the Night
Most visitors eat Nara as a lunch between temples, but the old capital's serious tables are at their fullest at dinner. Four of the five houses here sit in or beside Naramachi — Tsukumo, with Two MICHELIN Stars (MICHELIN Guide Japan 2026); Hoshino, with One MICHELIN Star (MICHELIN Guide Japan 2026); Tsuruyoshi (Tabelog Award 2026 Bronze); and Gen, a hand-milled soba house — with Wa Yamamura one stop away at…
Booking & Access
Pocket Concierge (Amex): Fees, Cancellation and How It Works (2026)
Pocket Concierge is an American Express–owned platform where you request a course, pay the full price online once the restaurant accepts, and leave without a bill. It works in Japanese and English, needs no Japanese phone number, and lists mostly mid-to-upper-tier houses plus a few famous names. Its terms allow a non-refundable usage fee, shown only at checkout, and a strict default cancellation schedule.
Regions & Itineraries
Shinjuku Food Guide: Yokocho Alleys, Yakiton and the Neon Table
Shinjuku is Tokyo's density made edible — the world's busiest station ringed by yokocho alleys, izakaya towers, ramen counters and food halls. The icons are Omoide Yokocho, the lantern-lit alley of smoking grills, and Golden Gai's tiny bars; the connoisseur's address is Torishige, the charcoal yakiton counter that elevated pork skewers to haute cuisine. Eat skewers and smoke in the alleys early, keep one serious…