The Journal
Michelin, lineage, and how Japan's restaurants take bookings
Field notes from our Tokyo desk — who is actually reachable and how, the histories behind the counters, and the realistic way in. Written by the people who make these calls every day.
189 articles
Definitions & Glossary
Wagyu Grades Explained: A5, A4 and the BMS Score
A5 is two grades in one — yield grade A, a carcass cutability estimate, and quality grade 5, which is set by the lowest of four assessed criteria. Marbling is scored separately on the BMS scale of 1 to 12, where 8 and above earns a 5. The letter says nothing about breed, region, or flavour.
Ingredients & Seasons
Ayu: The Summer Sweetfish of Japan's Rivers — and Where to Eat It
Ayu, or sweetfish, is Japan's defining summer river fish, in season from the June fishing opening through high summer. The classic preparation is shioyaki — salt-grilled whole over charcoal, eaten with tade-su water-pepper vinegar. Find it in kaiseki houses and riverside ryotei, or watch cormorant fishing on the Nagara River.
Regions & Itineraries
Where to Eat Kobe Beef and Wagyu in Japan
Eat certified Kobe beef in Kobe city, where teppanyaki counters sear it to order, or in Tokyo's specialist steakhouses. True Kobe is Tajima-strain Japanese Black from Hyogo, and most travelers also compare it against Matsusaka, Omi, and regional wagyu like Hida.
Michelin & Rankings
Best Restaurants in Japan You Can Actually Book (2026)
The best restaurants you can actually book in Japan in 2026 are the starred and Hyakumeiten-listed kitchens that still take reservations from outside guests — through specialist concierges, luxury hotels, or their own booking lines. This excludes members-only and introduction-only rooms. Focus on top restaurants that remain reachable, decide dates early, and book through an intermediary rather than chasing closed…
Regions & Itineraries
Best Restaurants in Osaka You Can Actually Book
Osaka's strength is kappo — seasonal cooking served across a counter — and its street food, above all kushikatsu and oden. The top kappo counters release seats on a monthly schedule, so planning about a month ahead is what wins a table, unlike the walk-in classics. Two houses a short train ride from Umeda — Shunsaiten Tsuchiya for tempura in Suita and Ichijunisai Ueno Minoh for kaiseki in Minoh — show both ends of…
Regions & Itineraries
Best Sushi in Kyoto You Can Actually Book
The best bookable sushi in Kyoto splits in two — the city's own pressed saba-zushi, served walk-in at century-old houses, and its handful of quiet omakase counters. The short list of top counters is small and largely booked through a concierge or hotel rather than online.
Michelin & Rankings
Why Some of Japan's Best Sushi Has No Michelin Star
Some of Japan's greatest sushiya carry no Michelin star not because their cooking slipped, but because they stopped accepting reservations from the general public. Sukiyabashi Jiro and Sushi Saito both left the guide over access, not quality, while Sushi Yoshitake, unlisted since the 2025 edition, may be a similar case, though Michelin has not said why. Michelin lists restaurants the public can book, so exclusivity…
Booking & Access
Can You Book Japan's Best Restaurants Online? A Reality Check
At Japan's finest counters, online booking exists but rarely works the way visitors expect. Many release part of their book on Japanese platforms such as OMAKASE, Ikyu or TableCheck — on a set release day, in small batches that sell out in seconds. Others take reservations only by Japanese-language phone, by membership, or by introduction, so the apps show them permanently full or not at all. Platforms work well for…
Booking & Access
Can Foreigners Book Restaurants in Japan? The Honest Answer
Yes — foreigners can book the vast majority of restaurants in Japan. Blanket refusal by nationality is not the norm and is not what stops most travelers. The real obstacles are language, introduction-only houses, and a table's caution toward unverified bookings — all of which are solvable.
Etiquette & Culture
Dietary Needs & Allergies at Japanese Counters
Omakase courses are fixed and built around seafood, so they offer little room for last-minute changes. Serious allergies and dietary restrictions such as vegetarian or vegan must be raised when you book, not on the night, and ideally communicated clearly in Japanese. Many counters can adapt with notice; some decline severe-allergy bookings, so it is essential to ask before you travel.
Etiquette & Culture
Do You Tip in Japan? The Definitive Answer
No, you do not tip in Japan. Tipping is not part of the culture and can confuse or even offend staff, who may chase you down to return the money. Good service is considered standard and is built into the price, and higher-end restaurants add a service charge to the bill instead. Leaving extra cash is unnecessary everywhere.
Lineage & History
How Edomae Sushi Reached Hokkaido
Edomae sushi reached Hokkaido through Tsutomu Shimamiya, who spent three years at a sushi shop in Yokohama and then trained under Kazuo Nakata at Nakata before founding Sushizen in Sapporo in 1971. His counter established Tokyo-style edomae in the north, and cooks who trained there now run counters from Sapporo and Hakodate to Fukui, Shiga and Tokyo.