Miso ramen is now eaten across Japan, but it started in one Sapporo kitchen. Morihito Omiya — a former South Manchuria Railway man — began Ajino Sanpei as a street stall in 1950, devised the miso ramen in 1954, and watched it become a national name after the magazine Kurashi no Techo wrote it up in 1955. In 1968 the shop moved to the fourth floor of the Daimaru Fujii Central building, on Minami 1-jo Nishi 3, where it still works. This is the source bowl, the dish every miso ramen elsewhere descends from.
What you eat
The original Sapporo miso ramen, from the kitchen that first put miso to noodles this way in 1954. It is a bowl worth eating with its history in mind: not a regional variation but the point of origin, still served on the fourth floor of a downtown building most visitors would walk straight past.
Arriving without a booking
There are no reservations here. You join the line and are seated in turn, and the fourth-floor address takes a little finding. That is where a guide, an interpreter, or simply someone who knows the queue earns their place: getting you up to the right floor, through the wait, and to a first order that shows the bowl at its best. The value is in the arriving, not in any table held for you.
Go if you
Travelers who want the ramen at its historical source, and who would rather have company that knows the building, the line, and what to order than face the fourth-floor queue cold.